Restaurants

Tom Sietsema reflects on 25 years of dining in DC and what it takes to be a top food critic

The Washington Post food critic revealed some picks from his 2024 Fall Dining Guide and looked back at how D.C.'s restaurant scene has evolved

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Tom Sietsema has been reviewing DMV restaurants with the Washington Post since 2000, helping elevate mom-and-pop restaurants and delivering memorable burns over the years.

Sietsema released his Fall Dining Guide on Wednesday, naming Chicatana his Restaurant of the Year. But this guide covers more than the best places to eat right now.

“I'm sort of looking back a little bit,” Sietsema said in an undisclosed location deep inside the Washington Post headquarters. “I'm looking forward a little bit.”

To mark 25 years of dining guides, Sietsema went incognito to speak with News4’s Tommy McFly, wearing a getup that included a wig, a Washington Post baseball cap and sunglasses. (Even though he’s moved away from disguises while dining out – he said there have been mishaps and “it takes up way too much time.”)

How D.C.’s dining scene has evolved: Tom Sietsema’s favorite restaurants are all around D.C., Maryland and Virginia

After a quarter century, Sietsema clearly remembers why he picked The Prime Rib for his first D.C. restaurant review. He figured everyone could relate to a K Street steakhouse.

Looking back, the choice demonstrates how much has changed.

“Not many people go to K Street anymore for a meal or they don't think to,” Sietsema said. “Downtown is a totally different animal right now. We are not a steakhouse town and we haven't been for a really long time.”

The Wharf, Shaw and Navy Yard are just a few neighborhoods that have grown into dining destinations.

Sietsema says he notices more solid neighborhood places great for a weeknight meal. He’s also watched options explode in the suburbs.

Roberto's in Vienna, Chay in Falls Church, Local Provisions in Sterling and Eden Center got shoutouts in our interview – and those aren’t even the eight Virginia restaurants in the Fall Dining Guide. Four Maryland spots made the list, including Lime & Cilantro in Silver Spring and Channai Hoppers in Gaithersburg.

“There's very good reason to stay close to home,” he said.

What goes into being D.C.’s top food critic?

It's no secret that Sietsema keeps his identity a mystery – he doesn’t want his restaurant experience to be any different because he’s among the nation’s most famous food critics.

To make sure his takes are accurate, Sietsema visits a restaurant at least three or four times before reviewing it.

“So even if they noticed me on the first visit or the third visit, I'm often able to sneak in at another time, at an off hour, and get what I hope is a real reader experience,” he said.

He has one big rule, though.

“I never make a reservation in my own name.”

As food influencers get millions of likes on social media, the experienced food critic said it remains important to pay your own way at restaurants and do thorough research.

Sietsema turns to cookbooks, local chefs, under-the-radar online sources (not Yelp, he said) and recommendations from friends, experts and service industry veterans about where to eat.

After so many years, he doesn’t just keep going out of excitement to explore D.C.’s food scene. He enjoys helping readers spend their money wisely.

“I wanna be your best friend who happens to eat out a lot more than you do and has taken one for the team or gone to a really expensive place to ferret out gems, right?” Sietsema said. “Or steer you away from bad places.”

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